You asked. We answered. Read how WOTF’S beauty director and resident makeup artist Marc Cornwall creates the perfect bronzer and dewy foundation every time on supermodels and celebrities around the world.
Veronica Webb: Talk us through step by step on how to apply foundation that covers a multitude of imperfections but still looks radiant and natural?
Marc Cornwall: Good foundation begins with good prep. Give your skin 30 minutes whenever possible to soak in and absorb your skincare products.
VW: Right now, I’m addicted to Theraderm, it’s a premium affordable skin care brand that works well for mature skin that tends to be dry. What do you suggest for people with oily skin types.
MC: Fenty makes skin care with a high salt content that helps control oiliness. Neutrogena makes great oil-free skincare products which are easier on acne-prone and sensitive skin that I also recommend.
VW: You and I try every foundation on the market. What’s your favorite for a dewy radiant look?
MC: IT Cosmetics makes a full coverage CC cream that has an SPF of 50 and it’s moisturizing as well. The trick is to use the foundation as both a base and a concealer. Everyone thinks to color correct and cover skin irritations you’ve got to use concealer before foundation. That’s a myth.
VW: What’s the true story?
MC: Many concealers are cream to powder formulas or oil based – which means that they can get cakey looking or make foundation literally slide around on your face. The trick is to liberally apply the foundation very liberally to the spots where skin needs it the most, don’t be afraid to use too much product because you’re going to blend the product over the rest of the skin. Blending outwards from the edges from where foundation is most concentrated the foundation becomes sheer where it’s less needed for coverage and remains opaque where it’s most needed.
VW: Basically, you create a canvas.
MC: Right! Then you go back and put the concealer on top of the canvas you’ve created with the foundation.
VW: Is there a special technique you like for applying foundation?
MC: I use a flat brush. And what I do is, I load up the brush with the product and I go straight on to the area that I want to cover the most. And I do pile and I put it on there and I defuse the edges. Then go back in with a moist beauty blender to make the coverage really smooth.
VW: Beauty blenders can be hell! Half the time, I end up accidentally wiping makeup off with the beauty blender and I have to start again. Makes me feel like a rookie!
MC: You don’t want to double pat wherever you put the coverage on, because it’s going to make it shear. it all out. And what you’re trying to do is build up coverage there.
VW: Well, what am I doing wrong?
MC: You can’t go in on dry foundation with a wet beauty blender. Start blending with the moist blender once foundation is laid down on the skin with the brush. Moisture from the beauty blender moves the makeup evenly over the surface of the skin.
VW: How long does it take the makeup to dry down?
MC: Well, depends on what foundation you have, but with the CC cream from IT we’re using here you have about 3 minutes before it sets. You want to softly go over the whole face with the blender like a little bird hopping across the patio until all the excess product is removed.
VW: What’s the next step?
MC: Brush up the eyebrows and fill them in as needed. I like to use Brow Styler by Dior.
VW: How come?
MC: Because it glides right on without pushing too hard on the skin. Plus, it has a cute little brush too that really works well.
VW: Explain how to achieve the whole powder and concealer fandango? Because, that’s what really makes the look a lewk.
MC: Yes! We love to use Dior skin concealer, because it looks creamy, but sets like a powder, so it doesn’t move or crease easily.
VW: What areas do you put the concealer on mostly?
MC: Under the eyes, and I go farther down towards the cheekbone that you might think, in order to reflect a lot of light and bring out the cheeks. Then I dust under the eyes with Mac mineral powder in Give Me Sun to warm up the skin.
VW: Then my new fave drugstore gloss from Milani 04 Luminoso, a flick of Better Than Sex mascara, Armani Eye Tint #11 and sweep of NARS Orgasm blush to finish off the look.
SUN SAFE SUMMER SKIN: Besides using an SPF Foundation Use an SPF tinted powder like Color Science SPF 50, so you don’t blow your glow by getting sun damage.
Pro tip for keeping your makeup fresh and dewy under a mask 😷 – Milani Make It Dewey 16 Hour Setting Spray and Revlon Color Stay Lipstick in Nude #1 for beauty that won’t budge.